The demand for contemporary watches with retro styling has outlived the expectations of many business observers. And when a design is backed by the model’s personal heritage, as within the case of Longines, the attraction can solely be magnified. To make sure, Longines is hardly distinctive amongst the Swiss manufacturers, or actually watchmaking manufacturers from around the globe, in avidly mining its personal heritage. Even inside the Swatch Group, Longines hardly cuts a lonely determine on this regard; Swatch Group is the father or mother firm of a variety of manufacturers, from Breguet and Blancpain to Mido and Hamilton. One way or the other although, Longines feels prefer it represents the retrostyled watch, or new-old nostalgia timepiece to a tee. In WOW, we name these contempo-retro watches.
“The watch universe is the one sector I do know which builds on its traditions to go additional and innovate,” mentioned Longines CEO Matthias Breschan. “In watchmaking, perpetuating a convention is what makes us alive. That is notably true for Longines.”
This is perhaps as a result of Longines has been preserving historic designs alive of their fashionable portfolio even earlier than this present development gathered tempo. We traced it again to the 2007 Legend Diver, however we concede that it is perhaps even sooner than this. The later enhance in curiosity (post-Nice Recession) solely benefited Longines, and that’s the reason we see much more choices from this Saint-Imier model. We’ve got lined a number of re-creations final 12 months each in print and on-line: the Heritage Traditional Chronograph 1946, the Heritage Traditional Tuxedo (with and with out chronograph), and the Heritage Classic with a sector dial. The Spirit collection that graced our cowl in concern #59 final 12 months was not a re-creation or reissue, however a completely new improvement. Even so, it seemed like one thing Howard Hughes would possibly put on.
Longines’ Silver Arrow is racing previous
Extra adopted this 12 months. The Silver Arrow watch, additionally a member of the aforementioned Heritage assortment, appears to be a favorite amongst many collectors, in addition to our personal WOW colleagues in different international locations. The unique journey of the Silver Arrow started in 1955 when the title was picked from the 450 selections proposed by Longines staff to speak the futuristic spirit derived from race automobiles and supersonic plane. The title Silver Arrow itself would possibly remind you of the official nickname of German racing automobiles, together with the legendary Mercedes-Benz and Audi (or what would grow to be often called Audi) vehicles of the Nineteen Thirties.
The fashionable reincarnation of the Silver Arrow watch has the identical minimalistic silver opaline dial with sword-shaped fingers and striated hour markers beneath a box-shaped sapphire crystal. Its 38 mm chrome steel case is paired with a classic fashion leather-based strap in matte brown. The brand new Silver Arrow is powered by the self-winding L888.5 motion (ETA A31.L11) with a 72-hour energy reserve, and a silicon stability spring that qualifies it for the brand new Longines five-year guarantee scheme.
We’re all dialled up
When Longines needs to provide reissue watches a twist, the agency is aware of how to take action in such a means that purists is not going to cry foul. Take the Heritage Traditional with the sector dial, for instance. The mannequin was given its rebirth in late 2019 and graced the quilt of the WOW Thailand March 2020 concern. Within the optimum 38.5mm measurement, its key promoting level is the sector dial, which has developed a following in recent times.
Having realised a moderately trustworthy reinterpretation of the unique items from the Nineteen Thirties, Longines experiments this 12 months with new black sector dial variations. Every zone of the dial is given a unique ending: matte for the central circle, round brushing for the hour monitor, and concentric rings for the small second subdial. Similar because the Silver Arrow, this watch comes with a five-year guarantee with using a silicon stability spring in its self-winding L893 (ETA A31.501). However as an alternative of the leather-based strap as the one carrying choice, this sector dial watch is obtainable on a grain of rice chrome steel bracelet as properly — a rarity among the many Heritage assortment members. Certainly that is the one mannequin with such a bracelet that we are able to consider.
Petroleum blue dials
One other instance of a twist that has garnered constructive responses from potential patrons, the brand new Avigation BigEye affords a petroleum blue dial, contrasting black counters and titanium case. The Avigation BigEye is a re-creation of the Nineteen Thirties pilot’s chronograph. Its title alludes to its outsized 30-minute counter on the three o’clock place, and its function as a navigation software for aviators. The present fashionable product of this design was launched in 2017 in typical chrome steel with a black dial. The brand new titanium model with a petroleum blue dial is totally different however in a peaceful and soothing means. Maybe, it has to do with the shading impact on the grained dial, or the beige hue of the Tremendous-Luminova on the fingers and numerals. Every part is fashionable and retro on the similar time. Once more, this watch comes with a five-year guarantee due to the silicon stability spring within the L688 column wheel chronograph motion.
For anybody in search of one thing alongside this classic avenue, however with even higher distinction out of your different watches, we are able to advocate the Avigation Watch Kind A-7 1935. This 2020 novelty is constructed upon the unique Longines design for the US Military pilots the place the dial is rotated 40 levels to the suitable in order that the wearer can learn the dial with out eradicating his left hand from the management of the plane. The monopusher embedded into the crown operates the column wheel chronograph. Calibre L788.2 powers this 41 mm watch. A model of this watch was on the quilt of WOW Singapore in 2017.
“Right this moment, Longines is thought and recognised all through the world. That is the results of our model’s loyalty to its origins and values,” mentioned Breschan. “We’re providing top quality merchandise that includes refined aesthetics, accuracy and reliability with an impressive worth for cash. We’re assured that new generations of watch lovers respect these belongings and likewise extremely worth our fixed quest for innovation whereas benefiting from our wealthy Heritage. On this regard, our Heritage phase and our new Longines Spirit assortment are assembly nice success. We expect this can be a signal that, for many individuals, and particularly for youthful ones, watchmaking and custom can’t be set aside. With a Longines Heritage or a Spirit mannequin in your wrist, you aren’t solely carrying a watch, you’re a part of historical past.”
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