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The Famed Jeweller Is Again, Stronger Than Ever

Mr Fawaz Gruosi, model founding father of Fawaz Gruosi. Picture: Damian Foxe

To explain Fawaz Gruosi as “irrepressible” can be the understatement of the millennium. The famed jeweller, who grew up in Florence and is of Lebanese descent, lower his tooth as a gross sales assistant at Torrini, a Florentine jeweller.  Not lengthy after, his profession bloomed as he joined Harry Winston — first in London, after which within the late 70s, Saudi Arabia — earlier than being noticed by Gianni Bulgari himself.

Noting his expertise, Bulgari took Gruosi all around the world to maintain a glance out for the model’s VIP clientele. In a while, in 1993, he began de Grisogono, an organization the place he ceaselessly sought to deliver the world new and inventive concepts. He parted methods with the corporate in 2019, however by no means one to relaxation on his laurels, Gruosi is now again, extra tenacious than ever, along with his personal eponymous model and a boutique in wonderful Mayfair, London. At 69 — he not too long ago celebrated his birthday in Porto Cervo — his return to the limelight could also be a shock to some, however when you’re accustomed to Fawaz Gruosi, you’d know that there’s little or no that might maintain him down. The truth is, he counts well-known stars equivalent to Sharon Stone as followers of his work.

Sharon Stone carrying Fawaz Gruosi jewelry throughout the seventeenth Zurich Movie Pageant. Picture: Fawaz Gruosi / T.Niedermueller

Right here, we meet up with the icon to study extra about his illustrious profession, new model, and obsession with Amber. Learn on for extra.

Your profession has been fairly an unbelievable journey. Inform us extra concerning the new London boutique and what your plans are for it.

Certainly, it’s an unbelievable journey and for this reason I wish to proceed discovering new paths to create the jewelry that I really like. London is a particular place for me, it’s the place my household is and it’s additionally a spot the place I really feel at residence. I needed the London boutique to be near my coronary heart, this boutique is designed to be a really intimate house and it’s the place I can present what I actually love. 

You championed black diamond earlier than anybody else. And now you  have a new-found ardour for Amber. Certainly, there’s a narrative behind this.

What I discovered most lovely about Amber was the colourful, heat color all made doable by nature over the method of thousands and thousands of years. A pricey pal of mine launched me to this materials and I discovered it unbelievable: the way it can protect tiny flowers, seeds and bugs from the previous, it’s like a time capsule. There was one thing magical right here. The Amber Assortment could be very private to me, it’s about contact, concerning the solar, and there’s something so particular about this mysterious, historical stone. 

Fawaz Grousi: The Famed Jeweller Is Back, Stronger Than Ever
This breathtaking Amber cuff is a outstanding feat of technical prowess proof of the audacity and savoir-fair of the Fawaz Gruosi atelier. The 5 amber sections are set on plaques of rose gold after which sculpted in a gently concave trend to provide the phantasm that they’re held collectively by the central ribbon of baguette-cut amethysts, sugarloaf jade cabochons and adorned with black ceramic. Picture: Fawaz Gruosi

You’re identified for designing spectacular jewelry items with trailblazing designs. How would you describe your new assortment?

I all the time do what I really like. All my jewelry, it’s all the time about what I really feel and like, and eager to go additional than the remainder. I would like my jewelry to really feel completely different, however I additionally needed it to characterize me. I by no means take into consideration what others are doing, I attempt to comply with what we like on the atelier and I’m all the time amazed by what we will do.  Generally folks will inform me that it’s loopy or {that a} mixture of stones is not going to work, however ultimately it all the time works. I believe this assortment is precisely about this: doing what I really like, what feels lovely and provides emotion, it’s all very private.

Fawaz Gruosi Porto Cervo Boutique at Cervo Lodge.

You’ve gotten spoken a few “new temper” in jewelry. Are you able to enlighten us about what you imply by that?

I believe what I’m making an attempt to precise once I speak about a “new temper” in jewelry is that there’s a new manner of doing issues. Issues are extra personal now, extra private. That is one thing that feels good to me, I’m able to really feel a deeper reference to my shoppers and with the jewelry and I believe that that is one thing they perceive and respect as effectively.

You grew up in Florence and are of Lebanese descent. How essential is the Italian heritage and craftsmanship in your newest assortment?

I actually suppose it performs an essential position in my jewelry design. Many individuals have described my jewelry as “trendy baroque” and this in all probability comes from my background. I used to be fortunate to develop up in Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance the place there’s a wealthy artwork tradition. 

My first job was working in a small jewelry boutique on the Ponte Vecchio, also referred to as the “jewelry bridge” since Medieval instances after the butchers have been changed by the jewelry retailers after which it turned an essential place for gold & jewelry buying. The goldsmiths there are true artisans, a lot of them maintain modernizing their conventional jewellery-making methods in order to create unique designs. 

That is one thing I like and I all the time remind myself of the significance of workmanship in creating my jewelry. Aside from Porto Cervo, Florence performs an enormous position in the best way I think about my creations. I prefer to play with colours and supplies, as you possibly can see simply from the Amber or Colorissima collections but in addition with lights, shapes, and proportions. And I believe it’s all these components mixed and make my design completely different.

Fawaz Grousi: The Famed Jeweller Is Back, Stronger Than Ever
Resembling a big shell, this voluptuous monochrome ruby cuff bracelet has set with over 120 carats gems which together with 239 unheated baguette-cut rubies and 1920 good lower rubies by Fawaz Gruosi. Picture: Fawaz Gruosi

For instance, this monochrome ruby bracelet [above] appears to be like easy however we needed to overcome many challenges with the intention to obtain the ultimate design. As you possibly can see, it’s all one uniform color, to not point out these are all unheated rubies that are very uncommon, matching them in numerous sizes and cuts is much more tough. To verify it presents a harmonized pink monotone, we spend further time blackening all prongs to cut back the distinction between the gold and rubies.

 [Editor’s Note: Mr Gruosi is the first jeweller in the industry doing this and since then, other jewellery brands follow in doing their high jewellery collection.]

To attain this proportion and quantity, it requires a sure weight of gold. Then again, the rubies should be lower barely bigger than these generally used. The large problem is to get the proper form & quantity which exhibits these wavy strains of gemstone with a form of layering impact. It not solely fashioned a voluptuous look however the advanced hybrid form additionally permits the rubies to replicate lights at completely different angles and created a dynamic glowing impact.

It’s one thing that’s tough to precise with a sketch however it’s one thing you possibly can really feel when you’re making the jewel. The largest problem is to complete it with a flawless stone setting. Once you contact it, you possibly can really feel the smoothness all the best way round. To snow-set rubies on all these little wavy mountains is just not straightforward and to get these barely completely different shapes of baguette-cut rubies invisibly set alongside these wavy strains is much more tough. It took 10 months of works & numerous wax sculptures performed in our Geneva atelier to good this piece.  

Who’re the shoppers of Fawaz Gruosi, what curiosity or passions do these women have all have in frequent?

I by no means attempt to create for a selected form of consumer or girl. I create what I discover lovely and permit those that like my designs to come back and comply with me. It’s possible you’ll inform from our first model visible marketing campaign, which confirmed how I needed to stage nameless muses, veiled in shadow, to allow the ladies’s creativeness to wander on this dream-like universe. Adorned with luxurious creations, in assertive and voluntary attitudes, generally casual and generally glamorous, these girls are within the picture of my creations, they’re resolutely trendy, audacious and assured.

Fawaz Grousi: The Famed Jeweller Is Back, Stronger Than Ever
From the most recent Amber assortment of Fawaz Gruosi, this stringing of 68 faceted amber beads of graduating measurement is without doubt one of the 3 necklaces that Fawaz Gruosi found in an vintage store in Milan. Instantly subjugated by their honey amber color and magnetism, he needed to sublimate them by enhancing them in a easy and discreet manner. Three kinds of spacers have been used: brown diamonds, amethysts and polished gold spirals. Picture: Fawaz Grusi

How essential is Asia within the improvement of the Fawaz Gruosi model? How distinct are the requests and style of your Asian clientele in comparison with the West?

Asia is all the time on my enterprise map, and it has all the time been essential for me. I nonetheless bear in mind my first journey to Hong Kong, which is already near 30 or 40 years in the past. I bear in mind the air, the smells, the color, the tradition and the best way folks gown and their type of carrying jewelry which is completely different than in Europe.  It has impressed me rather a lot each time I visited. Up to now, I had designed a watch (Be Eight) with a case formed like a gourd which was impressed by the fortunate quantity 8 in Chinese language tradition. 

Now, I’ve additionally found that Amber means “Tiger’s Tears” or “Braveness of the Tiger” in Chinese language tradition, and that is one thing which I discover very fascinating. I really feel that for my Asian shoppers it is vitally essential to have a private method to jewelry, my Asian shoppers search for distinctive items with distinctive craftsmanship and particulars that can not be discovered anyplace. I had enterprise in Asia for greater than 20 years and lots of of these shoppers have now became shut buddies. I look ahead to having the ability to journey to Asia once more to current my jewels and would like to organise personal conferences in Asia or invite shoppers to London as soon as travelling is feasible once more. 

Fawaz Grousi: The Famed Jeweller Is Back, Stronger Than Ever
Fawaz Gruosi London Flagship retailer in Mayfair. Picture: James McDonald

When folks speak about “luxurious” to you, how do you describe it and the way does it relate to you and your work?

I believe luxurious can imply many issues, it’s all the time completely different for everyone. For me, and particularly now with the state of affairs on the planet, it means taking the time to take pleasure in issues. Taking the time to understand small issues, like having an espresso al fresco and having fun with the solar, or having fun with the posh of spending time with household and even going exterior of your property. 

Luxurious is de facto about having fun with the small print, in my work and in my jewelry, I would like the consumer to understand these particulars. All the pieces we do is made to perfection, from the concepts to the setting and the selection of stones we be sure that all the small print are there. Generally we overlook to note the small print, however with the jewels in our assortment, we all the time bear in mind. 

You used to journey throughout all continents to fulfill shoppers and suppliers in all main capital cities. That is clearly not doable in the interim. What has the Covid-19 pandemic taught you?

It has been very tough, and I do know that I’m not the one one who has felt this manner. I believe we’ve got needed to adapt, we’ve got needed to prioritise what’s most essential: household, well being, security. The Covid-19 disaster has proven me that it doesn’t matter what, there are some values which might be a very powerful. With shoppers and suppliers I believe that this has helped us develop into nearer and perceive one another. In fact, I can’t wait to have the ability to journey once more and I’m wanting ahead to coming again to human contact. Jewelry has all the time been concerning the private factor.

Why did you make London your present residence, what drew you to settle within the British capital?

Properly, I’ve been residing right here for the previous few years. My household is right here, my daughters and my grandchildren and I’m comfortable that I get to spend time with them.  London can be a really completely different metropolis and I all the time discover one thing new right here. If it’s a bar or restaurant or if it’s discovering nature once more in one among London’s parks whereas strolling my canine, it’s all the time a metropolis which can present me one thing new. It’s a particular metropolis. 

Should you have been to call one mentor who has drastically influenced you in your path and profession, who would that be?

Gianni Bulgari.

For extra details about Fawaz Gruosi, click on here.

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